Norte Primer

When the kayaking gets tough, the tough kayakers:

a)    Go hiking

b)   Get a hotel room

c)    Paddle in the pool

d)   All of the above

It was a windy week. A sailboat heading south reported north winds of 30-40 knots. Palm trees at the hotel did a lot of lopsided yoga. Gusts of blowing dirt found us even in the pool.

Day one, we drove up the Sierra La Giganta mountains to California’s second mission, and best preserved. San Javier. The nearby canyon, Las Parras, has flowing water, along which we hiked. Fruit trees line its banks on Francisco’s rancho, and then it flows wild through rocks and groves of palm trees.

I’ve never checked in on the morning Puerto Escondido net from the shores of the Tripui Hotel pool, but I did this week. “Kayak Baja—Party of 8 at the Tripui Pool. Today we’re going for a circumnavigation.” Actually we practiced rescues, rolls, and tight maneuvering techniques.

We were ready for some action on day 4. Swells of 3-4 feet rolled by Punta Coyote where we practiced maneuvering and rescues. Nervous faces opened into smiles as folks got comfortable in the waves and wind.

Jim spotted some strange fish and watched as 2 oarfish beached themselves on the rocks and died. Coming from 600-3000 feet deep, they are usually expiring when they’re seen near the surface. These were small, at about 8 feet long, but they can grow to 50 feet. Iridescent blue spots faded to gray as they died. Red dorsal fins waved, then rested.  Gulls and turkey vultures fed. A starfish climbed aboard. Tiny red-legged hermit crabs feasted on scraps.

Better late than never, the wind relaxed and we crossed an undulating sea to Danzante Island for a delicious 2-day circumnavigation.

Baja trips start again in February with the Islands Builder plus Whales. Meanwhile, best of the holidays to you!

Kayak Sailing on the Sea of Cortez

I was blown away by our first official kayak-sailing trip, in a wonderful way. A custom group came from Washington state, organized by Jim & Mary who’ve paddled with us almost annually since our very first trip in 2007.  The wind actually cooperated often, for a gentle introduction to kayak sailing for the first-timers, and then gave us some exciting action later in the week.

Stars punctuated our nights.  Fresh fish flavored our dinners, thanks to Ramon’s dedicated efforts. Music inspired our spirits.  Harmonica and flute duets were often heard on local, very low wattage “stations” of KARM Carmen and KDNZ Danzante.  Morning and evening “broadcasts” included weather forecasts and wildlife reports, messages from sponsors, and of course a fine blend of music and humor.

The weather began to cool off, and snorkeling was followed by lounging around on warm rocks. Our route took us around Carmen Island, a little more quickly than planned, inspired by the forecast of strong wind. When the wind hit, we were in a prime location to enjoy a relaxed basecamp experience for a few days, with playtime in the waves in unloaded kayaks.

On Danzante Island we were treated to the show of a rattlesnake eating an improbably large rat. After a couple of hours, the hind feet and tail were yet to be ingested.

A windy forecast greets the next trip, which will give us some fine opportunities for skill-building, as well as hiking in the mountains.  Tune in next week for a report!

Loreto Islands 21-day Challenge - part two

We made it to Isla Monserrate, the first commercial sea kayaking outfitters to do so, that I know of. Hot, calm weather turned quickly to the first Norte of the season, and we scooted back to the shelter of Danzante Island. There we played and practiced rescues in 20-knot wind. We also explored the beaches for plants and were rewarded with the sight of the elusive Inside-Out Flower, and predatory green spiders lurking on its blossoms. And the even rarer Cholla Beach Dragon and Ring-Necked Blue Goose.

On our final day, we launched into the setting full moon at sunrise. Lovely!

Check our calendar for upcoming trips!  

Loreto Islands 21-day Challenge - part one

The biggest challenge of the Loreto Islands Challenge, Part 1, was keeping cool.

We snorkeled a lot! Seargent Majors are everywhere, but this is the first I've seen a cormorant under water.

Calm weather also gave us opportunity to explore Coronados, Carmen, and Danzante Islands in intimate detail including caves, arches, and graceful rockhopping.

Dynamic geology reminded us that we ride on a living planet. In this case, the dynamic was primarily erosion, but the colorful and unique formations tell a tale of volcanoes past, and of ancient sea floors raised up. Personally, I'm happy to be a close witness to the occasional erosion instead of the other options. In Ballandra, a cove, this used to be a beach backed by a sandy dry arroyo. The rains blasted out a channel that we could paddle for half a kilometer.

Where the dark water line stops, a section of this wall has fallen into the sea.

For the final segment of our 21-day Loreto Islands Challenge, we're heading out to the more remote islands of Monserrate and Santa Catalina, weather permitting. Looking forward to the simple camp life for another 10 days!